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Day 13: Reeth to Richmond

July 20, 2016January 30, 2021 By Liz

Expectations

Sounds like a volume of an encyclopedia!

Should be straightforward walk, with the promise of a rest day tomorrow. 10.69 miles from Cambridge House/The Manse in Reeth to Arandale Guest House in Richmond. Glad that we’re all staying in the same lodgings again–should simplify things!

Realities

Actually, 11.47 miles…most of the extra was the walk from Cambridge House into the middle of Reeth and milling about there for a short while. The rest of the extra must just be from staggering a bit. Though actually, not a terribly staggering day, just 923ft total elevation gain 🙂

Communal breakfast with a British group of four we’ve bumped into several times since Kirkby Stephen and a couple who are not Coast to Coasters but were very memorable because they had a terrible car accident the day before and the woman was nursing a broken sternum.

Breakfast featured a remarkable teapot!

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We caught a sneak peek of the Packhorse luggage van for the first time.

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Then bid farewell to Cambridge House. A nice place, just visited when it was too warm to have perfect memories about it! It’s also quite a walk out of town, but that too might be insignificant without the blazing sun.

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Gathered in the village green, with one last internet browsing…

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We left Reeth at about 9:20 or so, everyone on foot except RL who took the bus, since she was still recovering from the sauna-workout of yesterday! The walk itself was pretty but unremarkable, down by the river for a while, then heading off across farmland. The main element of today was the changeable weather–reasonably nice as we left but threatening to the West.

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We listened to thunder rolling ever closer. Eventually it began to rain. Coats on. Then hail! We noticed the sheep all huddled against the stone walls against the weather, so for a few minutes we did the same. Luckily, the bank of cloud moved rapidly on. Coats off.

Interesting paved path through a dank wood…

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At about the 4 mile mark was the respite of Elaine’s Farmhouse Kitchen, serving snacks, sandwiches, and tea. We had cake, teacakes, scones, and of course tea, which was served in unique Coast to Coast mugs. I couldn’t resist–I had to buy one. Let’s see if it survives the journey from here to home, in backpacks and suitcases!

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The weather seemed now completely clear in all directions. Wasn’t really expecting more rain. We heard what sounded like distant thunder, but realized it was A10s practicing ahead. We watched them for the next couple of hours, roaring over the fells and swooping down into the valleys. So impressive (though I must say that by the time I reached Richmond and they will still thundering around, I began to tire of them.)

From nowhere, a new wad of angry clouds filled the sky. More thunder. And a short dousing–just enough to need to get rain coats on again. Then coats off again.

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There’s a famous view of Richmond from about a mile out, but ours was rather obscured by smoke from a large fire. Turned out to be construction debris being burned, possibly illegally, right on the edge of town. We met a resident who was furious about it.

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With the sun now out in force and temperatures climbing a bit, we walked through town streets to arrive at Arandale Guest House. RL was outside to wave us in. The proprietor, Paul, greeted us warmly and showed us around.

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Internet surprisingly slow, so I’m using my UK cell-data modem.

Paul had recommended Rustique, a French restaurant in town. R had related our awful experience from last night, and Paul assured us the service and food at Rustique would make up for it. He wasn’t wrong!

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F calling for service and actually getting it! Such a contrast to last night.

The food was amazing too–probably the best Boeuf Bourguignon I’ve ever tasted.

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This entry was posted in Coast to Coast 2016

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  Day 12: Keld to Reeth (High Route)
Day 14: Rest day in Richmond  

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