Day 6: Grasmere to Patterdale (Striding Edge)

Expectations

10.5 miles from Dale Lodge in Grasmere to Crookabeck Farm in Patterdale.

Whether we do this route or the shorter one paralleling Grisedale Beck will depend on (a) feeling like we’re up to adding 2 miles and 1000 extra feet of elevation gain and (b) the weather making it safe and worthwhile. Of the various high routes, this is the one I’d like to do, but we’ll see.

Realities

Updated at the next usable internet connection. Well, updated for now at a rather slow internet connection. I think maybe text only for now.

We did it! We did the high route, all the way up Helvelyn and down the horribly-misnamed Striding Edge. The “Edge” part is fine, it’s the “Striding” part that is laughable. It’s one heck of a scramble along a rocky ridge line with precipitous drops on one side or the other. 11.15 miles with total elevation gain of 3,322ft.

Anyway, more of that later.

We left Dale Lodge after a late-starting breakfast (the standard timing is already late for hikers–8:30am, but they were then 10 minutes later than that this morning. Made me want to poke them with a muddy hiking pole.) Stopped at the co-op to pick up stuff for lunch. Then headed up past the youth hostel that last time, we arrived at on a stormy night around midnight and pounded on the doors to get in, only to find out it was the wrong hostel!!

M’s left knee was bothering him so we paused to tape it up. L’s knee is, surprisingly, not a problem at all, but her right hip has taken over as the troubled joint.

We headed up Tongue Gill. Such a contrast to last time when it was heaving rain and terribly visibility. We recall struggling across at least three raging torrents. This time, just a few spits of rain, great visibility, and periods of sunshine. Only one significant stream to cross, and that was not difficult.

Climbed steadily up to what looked like it might be the dip where Grisedale Tarn is, only to realize there was another “up” to go, though a reasonably short one. Then over the ridge, there is Grisedale Tarn. Last time, the weather was so bad we couldn’t see the far shore at all, and there were white caps and spray. This time, much more benign, though still some wind to contend with, as well as a sudden drop in temperature. Today ended up being a “rain gear on and off” and “fleece on and off” kind of day.

At the decision point, the peaks were clear and we all felt good about heading higher. Tremendous climb up stone pathways. At the top of the main climb, we found a bit of shelter to eat our pack lunch. Then higher still, admiring the phenomenal views–out to the Irish Sea to our west, and eastward down the sunlit valley to Patterdale and beyond to the Pennines, which we will be hiking up on Monday I think.

The summit of Helvelyn lacks drama. It’s a very smooth, unremarkable top. But the descent down Striding Edge makes up for that. The first group we met were coming up Striding Edge and questioned our wisdom attempting to go down it. The rocky outcrops were challenging, even without the steep drops. We found alternatives around some of the outcrops, but none of it was easy. With burning muscles and screaming joints, we wobbled our way down. Took forever.

Once we were past the worst of it, we paused for snacks and drinks. At that point the rain moved back in so we didn’t linger. A rocky path took us back down to the low route, joints still screaming!

Then a long walk to Crookabeck Farm, but it was well worth it. By far the nicest place we’ve stayed so far. We are the only guests in their two-bedroom annex, and I’m sitting in their guest lounge admiring the view. The only downside is a 1/2 mile walk back to the pub for dinner. And I’m very hungry, so despite likely protests by my legs, we will make the trek.

The pub…