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Porthcurno to Penzance, bus to Marazion

July 7, 2018February 1, 2021 By Liz

The plan

Lots of excitement today! 11.25\626m ascent\average grade 6%\3:37 hours miles of strenuous walking to Penzance, then (unless we decide to just hoof it for an additional apparently-somewhat-dull 3 miles) a bus onward to Marazion, where we should meet up with the Ls and M. We are all staying at Glenleigh House. Then a rest day in Marazion, which we’ll probably use to visit St Michael’s Mount.

Reality

A bit more excitement than originally expected, in fact.

David and Sarah drove from their B&B in Marazion to the Penzance Station Car Park, then took a taxi to Porthcurno. We set out around 9, as usual. It already felt warm, and I felt quite fatigued up the first climb. Some of this part was quite underwhelming–lots of hedges you couldn’t see over. One pretty cove, and some unusually wooded areas that were pleasant. But it got hotter, and there was basically no breeze.

Then we got to a beach covered with enormous boulders.

Dave strode ahead with his long legs making quick work of it. Sarah followed in hot pursuit. David and I were further behind. Once Dave reached the end of the boulders, I could see him scaling a cliff. I was only halfway down the beach by then, and struggling. I figured there was no way I’d get up that cliff. Looking behind me, I could see a very rickety old set of steps up a short sandy cliff. David and I took that route, which turned out to be easy, and we were back on the proper trail within a couple of minutes. But now we had a challenge–we couldn’t see or hear Dave and Sarah. We walk up and down the trail trying to find some way to locate them. I was beginning to get seriously worried that they’d fallen off the cliff or down a mine shaft or something. Eventually (maybe 20 minutes later?) we walked up to a rocky outcrop and could finally see them bushwhacking their way up the steep slope above the cliff. Right as Sarah emerged out of the undergrowth, she realized she had blood pouring down her leg. She had a small puncture wound from who knows what, and it was bleeding quite impressively. Otherwise, no injuries, thank goodness. They said that neither of them could have scaled the cliff on their own–it took some significant teamwork. And once they’d started, it felt impossible to backtrack.

Thoroughly sobered by this experience, we  paused so Dave could fly the drone over the area they’d just inadvertently explored. Then onward. We stopped for food & drink at the Lamorna Beach Cafe, with the Trailblazer guide is rather scathing about, but was actually just fine. I imagine they got their act together since the book was published. They even have a place to refill water bottles now!

The vegetation at times seems very Mediterranean now we’re on the south coast.

But you don’t get geographically confused for long!

Another lovely, cool wooded area. Sometimes boggy, but who cares if it’s cool?

Then into Mousehole (pronounced Mow-zel). We had an icecream, served by an incredibly surly guy, then continued on.

The original plan was to walk to Penzance, but the walk from Mousehole on was underwhelming and we were hot, tired, and at risk of being late for our 5:30pm dinner reservation. So we got a taxi from Newlyn to Penzance, then a ride from David and Sarah the rest of the way to Marazion. Time for a hurried hello-and-hug with Mikey & the Langfords, a quick shower, and then dinner at the Godolphin Arms, a much swankier place than I’d expected. What a view!!!

Then stroll back to the B&B, pausing to admire St Michaels Mount again.

This entry was posted in South West Coast Path Cornwall

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